smoked duck breast with savoy cabbage and apples

This dish seemed to create itself when I brought home the main ingredients. Cabbage and apple were meant to be together, and smoked duck breast is the sultry femme fatale. Who knew that food could have a ménage à trois?

Those little specks of red are not paprika, but rather sumac, a tart spice made of dried sumac berries. Typically used in Middle Eastarn cuisine, sumac lends an exotic flavor to this Hungarian-inspired dish. Its bright sourness is a foil to the sweetness of the cabbage and apples, and the fatty duck.

smoked duck breast with savoy cabbage and apples

bacon fat
1/2 large or 1 small onion, halved and thinly sliced into crescents
1 savoy cabbage, sliced into thin ribbons
1 medium apple, any kind, but preferably a little tart, cored and thinly sliced
1 smoked duck breast, thinly sliced
salt and pepper to taste
garnish: sumac (or lemon juice), and parsley

  • Place a large skillet or wok on a medium to low flame, place some bacon fat into the pan.
  • Sauté the onions in the skillet. Meanwhile, place a smaller cast-iron skillet on a medium high flame. Melt some bacon fat in the skillet.
  • Fry the apple slices in the smaller skillet until golden brown on both sides. You’ll want to fry the apples in batches so as not to crowd the pan.
  • Once the onions have turned golden, add a handful or two of cabbage and stir. Cook for a minute and stir again. Then add another handful or two and repeat. Continue until all the cabbage has been added. You want to incorporate the cabbage with the onions and bacon fat without lowering the overall temperature of the cooking vegetables too much. This will also result in varying textures in the cabbage, some will turn out a little more crunchy, and some a little softer. If the pan starts to get dry, add more bacon fat.
  • As the apples finish cooking, add them to the cabbage onion mixture. Turn off the flame if most of the cabbage has just turned bright green. You want at least some of the cabbage to be somewhat al dente.
  • Fry the sliced duck breast in the skillet in which you fried the apples. Both sides should be slightly carmelized at the edges. Turn off the flame and add duck breast to cabbage mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  • Serve with buttered broad noodles or fettuccine.

Serves 3-4

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white beet sorrel potato soup

I once ate white borsch at a friend’s house as a teenager. It was a clear broth with potatoes and green leafies of some sort, and I loved it. This soup was a revelation for me, as my previous encounters with borsch had been entirely unpleasant. The only borsch I had growing up in California came in mass-produced jars bought from the local kosher food store. The jars of purple juice with spherical lumps looked like alien amniotic fluid, and taste about the same. As a result, I had always stayed away from anything that called itself borsch (or borscht), or anything with beets in it, for that matter. That bowl of white borsch opened up a whole new world to me. So this was borsch! It was good, honest traditional food with a harmony of textures.

My second revelation happened at college. My Moscovite friend Ariella had just prepared a fresh pot of red beet borsch, and offered me a bowl. “Oh, I don’t really like borsch, thanks,” I said foolishly. “Just taste a little,” she replied, undeterred. And so I did. It was tart and sweet, warm and delicious. I gladly ate an entire bowl. After that, it was a small leap to beets with goat cheese or gorgonzola and walnuts on a bed of greens.

My eternal thanks to Ariella for re-introducing me to fresh beets.

This soup combines the tart freshness of sorrel with the sweetness of white beets. Potatoes ground the soup with their earthy flavor and dense, creamy texture. I didn’t bother peeling the potatoes, you don’t notice the skins when the soup is blended.

white beet sorrel potato soup

butter and olive oil
1/2 large or 1 small onion, chopped
4 medium potatoes, chopped
4 medium white or golden beets, peeled and chopped
stock and/or water
2/3 lb sorrel, washed, drained, stems removed
salt and white pepper

  • Melt the butter and olive oil in a large pot on medium heat. Add the onions and stir.
  • When the onions are nearly golden, stir in the potatoes, then the beets.
  • Cook for a few minutes, then pour in stock or water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer for about 15-20 minutes, or until the potatoes and beets have softened.
  • Meanwhile, coarsely chop the sorrel. Stir in the sorrel and simmer until the sorrel begins to change color. Turn off the flame.
  • Using an immersion blender, blend the soup to a thick, creamy consistency. You can leave the soup a little chunky or blend it until it’s very smooth. I like it a little chunky.
  • Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Taste and correct seasoning.
  • Serve hot with a dollop of sour cream, or a splash of whole milk stirred in.

Serves 4-6

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bits and bobs

Wandering around the blogosphere, I often run into an interesting little tidbit and make a mental note to talk about it here. Naturally, this happens quite a bit and the little tidbits tend to add up. But my brain can only keep track of so many little morsels. Allow me to present them to you before my grey matter pulls a Control-Alt-Delete.

  • Menu for Hope: The foodblogosphere is abuzz with posts about this year’s third annual Menu for Hope campaign. Menu for Hope is a very successful online campaign organized by Pim to raise money for charity. Last year’s fundraiser benefited Tsunami victims in Asia. This year’s campaign aims to raise funds for the UN World Food Programme, an organization that fights hunger worldwide. Each $10 donation buys a raffle ticket with a chance to win your choice of prizes donated by foodbloggers. Prizes are organized by geographical region, with a fooblogger volunteer organizing each region. Each representative regional foodblogger hosts a writeup of all the foodbloggers offering raffle prizes in their region. Head over to Pim’s for more information.
  • Health care for restaurant workers: A professional chef, Shuna talks about the need for health care and adequate pay in the restaurant industry. I find it shocking that a person who works behind a desk, like me, receives subsidized healthcare benefits from my employer while people who work in a kitchen do not. Check out the article for a thought-provoking insider’s look at employee benefits in the restaurant industry.
  • Eating Around the World: I stumbled across this site while poking around delightfulblogs.com. The tagline is “Who said that models don’t eat?” and the profile reads “I am a fashion model in Paris and New York. I write about my passion for food, gastronomy and restaurants.” But please, don’t hate her because she’s beautiful (and because she eats food cooked by Guy Savoy and Joel Robuchon more often than most of us do in a lifetime.) Aiste provides a window into a mouth-watering gastronomical world, complete with photos of beautiful dishes us non-jetsetting non-models dream of eating.
  • Ebay for the home cook: Am I the last person on earth who’s only just discovered eBay? There are some lovely kitchen items up for auction on eBay, some of them reasonably priced. I recently bought a manual wooden spice grinder, a vintage wooden recipe box, and a pizza peel, all for decent prices, including shipping. I’ve got my eye on a heavy old rolling pin, and possibly a pot. If, like me, you prefer good old enamel cast iron over non-stick, eBay is one place to find these items for less than what you’d pay at one of the big chain kitchen stores.
  • Habeas Brulee: This is what my blog wants to be when it grows up. My god, the photos. I obviously need to spend much more of my free time exploring the blogosphere, as this one seems to have slipped right under my radar.
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weekend cat blogging #79 featuring sheba

You’ve met Sheba before, most notoriously as Sheba the Shack, Jabba the Hut’s third cousin twice removed.

Sheba is quite a character. When she’s not meowing at the neighbors or wriggling out of some wily human’s grasp, she likes to run around outdoors.

This morning was beautifully crisp and bright, with a cool smell of winter in the air, so we took the dog out to run around the yard. Naturally, Sheba followed along. Don’t get her wrong, she goes outside or inside whenever she feels like it, and not because the human can openers are around. But it was sunny out, so out Sheba went…

Sheba loves to play.

And hide among the shrubbery near the neighbors’ basement window.

She ponders the great questions of the universe…

… until she gets bored.

Then off to another hiding place, this one with better camouflage.

She crouches in the bushes, panther-like, awaiting her prey. What will she catch? A pillbug? A spider? Perhaps a small bird? Sheba is clearly the queen of this back yard.

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pumpkin spaghetti squash goat cheese tart

pumpkinsquash_pie_before

pumpkinsquash_pie_after

These are before and after photos of the pumpkin spaghetti squash goat cheese tart I made the other day. You can tell that one is an improvement over the other because it’s got a nicer hairstyle and better make up (that was subtle… think about it).

I love spaghetti squash. When you’re a kid, the idea that you can eat strands of al dente “spaghetti” that comes from a gourd is very exciting. I’m not sure why, it just is. “Oooh! Spaghetti from a squash that feels like spaghetti when you eat it!” Even as an adult, you never quite get over it.

I had recently bought some small pumpkins, which—with their velvety soft texture and distinctive flavor—struck me as an interesting foil to the spaghetti squash. Some fresh goat cheese would add richness and tang. I had considered chopping the pumpkin into chunks and tossing it with the spaghetti squash and cheese, pasta style. In the end, I decided to bake the whole thing as a tart, which turned out pretty well, I think.

I like the way the rich creaminess of the pumpkin pervades the tart, while the crunchy spaghetti squash provides contrasting texture and body. The goat cheese provides playful sparks of lively flavor (I might include bits of goat cheese within the batter next time). I used bacon fat to grease the tart pan, which added a lovely smoked flavor (you could substitute butter for a vegetarian version of this dish). As an afterthought, I arranged fresh thyme sprigs on top. Like the Dude’s rug, these really pulled the whole thing together.

Note: I’ve always sliced spaghetti squash lengthwise prior to baking. This time, I tried slicing it widthwise instead, following the advice of an article on cooking spaghetti squash. What a difference! The squash is easier to cut (less surface area) and the baked halves are more manageable when combing out the flesh.

pumpkin spaghetti squash goat cheese tart

1 baked spaghetti squash
1 1/2 small baked orange pumpkins
salt and pepper to taste
ground allspice to taste
1 egg
a bit of flour
2/3 lb soft goat cheese or feta cheese
bacon fat or butter
fresh thyme sprigs

  • Pre-heat the oven to 375°F.
  • With a fork, scrape out the spaghetti squash into a bowl. (You might want to chop the spaghetti squash strands into large bite-sized pieces. I think it might be easier to slice the tart that way.)
  • Scoop out the pumpkin flesh into the bowl, season, and mix. Taste and correct seasoning.
  • Add an egg and combine. Add a little flour to soak up the excess liquid. Mix. You want to stiffen the batter a bit.
  • Crumble in the cheese and mix, reserving a little cheese to distribute on top of the tart.
  • Grease a tart pan with bacon grease or butter.
  • Transfer the batter to the tart pan and smooth the top, so that the batter is even throughout.
  • Distribute pieces of cheese on top, then decorate with thyme leaves.
  • Bake for 35 minutes or until slightly browned.

Serves 6

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variations on borsch

Privyet, dear readers of food blog! I am taking break from translating Dostoevsky’s “Crime and Punishment” to do favor for Shelly, usual author of blog. I was just getting to juicy part, when phone rang. Expecting call from cursed ex-husband Alexei, I am drop book, [“Blin!” (blin is Russian slang word for a crap, yes?)], and answer phone.

“Da! Shto eto?!?” What you want, I say. (Alexei is rat bastard.)

“Um, hi? It’s me, Shelly.”

“Ohhhhhhhhhhhh, Shellinka! I thought you were Alexei, rat bastard ex-husband. Why you not say is you?”

“Sorry, Masha, I couldn’t get a word in edgewise. Kak dela?”

“Kharasho! Am good. All is good when Alexei does not call. May he be like chandelier, hanging in day and burning at night. How are you?”

“Heh, chandelier. Er, yeah, I’m fine, thanks. Trying to throw together some dinner.”

“And I am only trying to earn living, with no alimony from ex-husband and publisher’s deadline weaving over head!”

“Weaving?”

“No, not weaving. How is it? Loom… looming! Looming over head!”

“Yes. Wow. Yeah, that’s stressful.”

“Da. Life is stress. This is why there is wodka. Nu, why you calling, Shelly?”

“Well, with the weather turning cold and all, I was wondering if you had a good borsch recipe?”

“Cold? Weather is cold? Hehehe… you are funny! Is like Siberian summer!”

“Yes, well, I was thinking of making some soup, and I’ve got these beets in the fridge…”

“OK. You have big piece of meat on bone?”

“Um… no.”

“No? You have a fresh dill?”

“No, none of that either. Nope.”

“You have good Russian smetana?”

“I’m afraid not. Just some organic sour cream.”

“You are hear me shake my head on phone? You are feel me pull my hairs out with exuberation?”

“Um, exuberation?”

“Exasperation! I give myself new hairstyle with exasperation because you cannot make the borsch without a proper ingredients!”

“Oh. OK. I guess I’ll just improvise then.”

“Yes. Improvisation makes good results. One percent improvisation and ninety nine percents perspiration. Use deodorant.”

“Um, right, of course. Deodorant. Listen Masha, I’m sorry to bother you. I know you’re really stressed out now.”

“Dostoevsky is waiting for me. You make good soup. Don’t worry.”

“Thanks Masha, that’s sweet.”

“Plum jam is sweet. Poka, Shellinka.”

“Take care, Masha.”

Americans! Making borsch with sun-dry tomato and sushi. Is con-fusion cuisine!

con-fusion borsch with chard and garbanzo beans

butter and olive oil
1/2 large or 1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
6-8 baby beets, chopped
1/2 thumb-sized piece of ginger
1 15 oz. (425 gr) can garbanzo beans, drained
water and/or vegetable stock
several handfuls of chard, rinsed
1 lemon
salt and pepper to taste
ground carraway seeds to taste
1/2 tsp mild honey

  • In a heavy pot, heat the butter and olive oil over a low to medium flame. Cook the onions until almost golden, then add the garlic.
  • Add the chopped beets and stir, then add the garbanzo beans.
  • While the beets and beans cook, chop the ginger and add it to the pot.
  • Pour in the water or stock to cover, then pour in a little more, about an inch or so (2.54 cm) above the vegetables. Cover and simmer.
  • While the soup is simmering, chop the chard into ribbons. When the soup is bubbling, stir in the chard.
  • Slice the lemon in half and using a strainer, squeeze the juice of the lemon into the soup.
  • Season to taste with salt, pepper, and ground carraway seeds. Taste seasoning and correct, using the honey to balance the tartness of the lemon juice.

Garnish with any of the following:

  • Sour cream
  • Soft goat cheese
  • Raw leftover chard ribbons
  • Korean aged black garlic, chopped
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san francisco: ferry building farmers market

I try to get to the farmers market every Saturday or so, barring torrential rains or an insatiable need to laze around the house on a Saturday morning. While the Ferry Building farmers market in San Francisco is not the cheapest around, it’s still my favorite for its varied, high quality products, as well as the sheer fun of people watching. (There’s always an interesting array of locals and tourists, fancy city folk and laid back farmers.) The Ferry Building farmers market offers just about all the groceries you need, except perhaps, toilet paper. Among the goods: beautiful seasonal produce grown by local growers, freshly baked bread, fresh pastries, cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses both fresh and aged, grass-fed beef, pastured chickens, ducks, and eggs, the most delicious charcuterie around, nuts, jams, preserves, pickles, pasta, beans, fresh tortillas and tamales, and even wool yarn and blankets.

The purveyors sell their wares outdoors in front of and behind the ferry building all year round. The ferry building itself houses food-related shops such as a mushroom shop, meat shops and delis, an organic pastry shop, a chocolate shop, an ice creamery, an olive oil shop, an excellent cheese shop, as well as a combination wine shop and tasting bar, a tea room, caviar and oyster bars, and several very good restaurants.

The ferry building and the farmers market surrounding it is teeming with deliciousness that is constantly changing. The ebb and flow of the seasons bring herald new produce, which in turn inspire chefs, jam-makers, sausage-makers, fishmongers, bakers, pastry chefs. New stalls sprout up selling something new and different. And it’s quite common to see growers exchanging goods and sharing ideas. This is a living organism—a supermarket is dead in comparison. (Those of you who’ve been to a lively “shouk” or “souk” can attest to that!)

This past Saturday as I started my weekly round of shopping, it occurred to me that I had never photographed the farmers market I most often frequent. I’ve blogged about markets in Stockholm and New York, why not the local joint? And so I did. The following photos capture most of the foods I bought this week, and illustrating something of my favorite purveyors along the way. Bear in mind, I only captured a fraction of the market and its remarkable bounty. It would take several months of blogging, or perhaps a book, to document the market in its entirety.

mariquita farms

Mariquita Farm, one of my favorite vegetable growers. I love the little cards they pin to the vegetable crates explaining the variety of each vegetable and suggestions for preparation.

mariquita farms 2

Bodega Peruvian goat cheeses are delicate and light. I typically get the cilantro serrano chile spread and some fresh feta-style farmer’s cheese.

Bodega Goat Cheeses

Della Fattoria sells European style breads baked in wood-fired brick ovens, as well as pastries such as cupcakes and cookies.

This is what’s left at the Fatted Calf stand in the early afternoon. Everything sells out fast, so it’s best to place your order in advance through their website (which, luckily, I remembered to do). Those saucissons secs in the jar are great for snacking.

Spring Hill produces excellent butter, often churned the day before. They usually offer tastes of all their cheeses, so their stand gets very crowded.

Stone Free Farm is where I like to buy greens such as chard, spinach, baby bok choy, and mountain spinach.

Marin Sun Farms is famous for its very fresh pastured eggs, which are typically sold out by 11am. A carton of their eggs is like a small multicultural egg community, with different sizes, colors (from white to grey, brown, or pale green), and variations in shape. They also sell some excellent grass-fed beef and lamb. The Marin Sun stand is conveniently located adjacent to the Hayes Street Grill stand.

The farmer’s daughter recommended Huckleberry potatoes as her favorite variety. I bought Huckleberries, Purple Vikings, and Katahdins from Little Organic Farms. The potatoes are dry-farmed, a method that results in more flavorful produce.

My favorite little apple stand (I’ve forgotten their name!) has a number of unusual varieties such as “Black Twig” and “Wickson.” Wicksons are very small apples, only about an inch and a half in diameter (about 4.5 cm), perfect for snacking or cooking with meat or poultry. I love the old-fashioned wooden crates in which the apples are displayed, and the explanatory text for each variety. You can also buy apple tree twigs, apple syrup, and cider at the apple stand.

I’m a tough customer when it comes to olive oil. Having lived in Israel for twelve years, I was spoiled by a relatively affordable selection of good Mediterranean olive oils. In the Middle East, spicy olive oils tend to be popular, as opposed to milder, buttery olive oils. I suspect this has to do with the variety of olives used, or perhaps their ripeness at harvest. Consequently, I’ve had difficulty adjusting my palate to the admittedly excellent California olive oils. Bariani is an exception. The flavor of their olive oil has a powerful flavor that reminds me of the dominant olive oils beloved in the Middle East and the Mediterranean.

G.L. Alfieri Farms sells an incredible variety of nuts and nut products, including nut butters, chocolate covered nuts, and nut brittle. The bittersweet walnut brittle had me hooked on the first taste.

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stumbling across the finish line

It’s day 30 of NaBloPoMo. Can you believe it? Posting daily has become almost normal. I find myself writing more fluently, no stalling and pondering what exactly I want to say, writing, and deleting, and rewriting. In fact, on the days that followed the three days that I was too knackered to post, I felt a little out of practice. Daily posting seems to turn a spigot in my head that lets the words out. Sometimes, the words link together harmoniously, like a daisy chain coming full circle. Other times, I throw metaphors around like so much confetti after a really boisterous new year’s eve party. Still, this NaBloPoMo thing has inflamed the itch to write, and for that I am grateful.

Another thing I’ve learned is that posting every day is exhausting, though not for lack of ideas. The more frequently I post, the more I think about food, the more I want to share with you. But all the cooking, thinking, writing, editing, and rewriting—and lest we forget: photo snapping, winnowing, grimacing at bad photos, resizing, and uploading—is a lot of work. It’s like talking on the phone with your best friend for three hours. Great fun, but you could so use a nap afterwards.

Mostly, it’s been hard on poor A. November has been a blur of grocery shopping, planning Thanksgiving, cooking, posting, cooking, posting, cooking some more, and dropping in to say hello to my husband between posts. The poor man has forgotten what my face looks like, seeing only the glow of the laptop screen reflected on my forehead. “In December, I’ll have my wife back,” he says. I’m sure A is one of many NaBloPoMo spouses and partners who deserve a prize for their patience this November. Hmm… I’ll have to come up with something good.

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pasta with smoky sweet spinach and squash

smoky_pasta

This dish was born, as so many are, of ingredients that happened to be lying around. The squash—pumpkin—actually, was lounging around the wooden produce bowl, chatting up the onions and apples. The spinach leaves were chattering in the fridge, complaining of the damp and chilly turn the weather had taken. The bacon, of course, said nothing, as the hog it was made from had long since gone to piggy heaven. A box of spinach spaghetti called out from the cupboard, so as not to be excluded. “I know I’m green, and that’s a little weird for pasta, but you must’ve bought me with something tasty in mind,” he pleaded. True. No reason to discriminate against a noodle for being green. Pasta comes in all shapes, sizes, and colors, and every one is beautiful in its own way.

As my ingredients had taken the trouble to talk to me, I had no choice but to respond with pots and pans, a cutting board and a knife. What’s that, you think it’s violent and cruel to place a knife at the neck of a talking gourd? It’s not so much an act of violence as it is rearranging all the players for the play. A whole pumpkin is too big and haughty to share the stage with mere spinach leaves. But cut it down to size, say an inch and a half, and a squashy type becomes fast friends with delicately leafy spinach type folk. Bacon may not say much, but its smoky, crunchy presence is felt by all. Even green spaghetti is happier after boiling, its rigid, anxious strands now loose, and playful, and dancing. The grand finale is a pat of butter that bows to the audience as it melts on the hot pasta. “Ah!” sighs spaghetti, contentedly. And so do I, as I take a bite.

pasta with smoky sweet spinach and squash

pasta (enough for 2-3)
4 rashers streaky bacon
butter
1 small leek, split, washed and sliced into half coins (greens removed)
250 gr squash, cubed
3-4 handfuls fresh spinach leaves, washed and drained
allspice, salt, pepper to taste
maple syrup

  • Cook the pasta per the instructions on the box.
  • In a large cast-iron skillet, fry the bacon on low to medium heat. You want the bacon to slowly turn golden brown. Remove from the pan and put on a plate as soon as it has browned on both sides.
  • Drain the bacon fat into a heat-proof container and save for a future use.
  • Melt the butter in the skillet and add the leeks. Stir and cook until the leeks begin to turn golden.
  • Add the squash and stir. Cover the pan for a few minutes so that the squash steams and begins to soften.
  • While the squash cooks, crumble the bacon into small pieces.
  • Uncover the pan after the squash softens.
  • Season with allspice to taste.
  • Add the spinach a handful at a time and stir.
  • Pour in a small amount of maple syrup, about a teaspoon.
  • Add the crumbled bacon and stir to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serves 2-3

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documenting all you can eat #7

Here it is, day 7 of all you can eat. Inspired by Sam, the originator of this foodblogging challenge, I put together a slideshow of the foods I ate on day 7. It’s not nearly as pretty as Sam’s slideshow, but it does the job.

It’s been an interesting ride. I haven’t written down everything I eat in quite some time, and I’ve never shared this information with the blogosphere. Writing about and photographing what I eat has caused me to think about my eating habits, and possibly tweak them somewhat. As a result, this has turned out to be one of those experiments in which the result is directly affected by the mere act of observation. Would I have eaten all the things I did had I not been publishing them? Who knows. Would my diet have included an infinitely smaller proportion of turkey had this challenge taken place in August? Definitely.

Click the photo below to watch the show.

what_i_ate_7

Everything else I ate:

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