cranberry bean stew

bean_stew

Autumn has arrived, sort of. One day it’s rainy, the next sunny. It’s too cold for t-shirts, but not cold enough for sweaters. Such is the schizophrenic nature of the weather in California. If it were honestly cold in these parts, a hot bowl of fresh beans would be the perfect vehicle for taking the bite off the chill. But alas, a dish such as Boston baked beans is simply overkill. What to do?

Cook the last of the summer tomatoes with the first of the autumn beans. Throw in some sharp goat cheese to spike the sweetness of the tomatoes, and a handful of greens for color and contrasting texture. The result is a warming, yet light stew, alive with both delicate and strong flavors.

I used the remainder of a local bucheron I found at the bottom of the cheese section in the fridge. Bucherons harden with age, and their flavor sharpens dramatically. As is usually the case, I just used whatever I happened to have on hand. You could use another goat cheese, good old parmigiano reggiano, or Västerbotten, if you’re so inclined.

cranberry bean stew

1 c shelled cranberry or other large, fresh beans
water to cover
4 sprigs fresh thyme
olive oil
5 small tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
about 3-4 oz. of a hard goat cheese, or other strong-flavored cheese, chopped or grated
handful of fresh spinach, chopped into coarse ribbons

  • Place the shelled beans in a small pot or saucepan and cover with water. Add the thyme sprigs and bring to the boil.
  • When the water has boiled, adjust the flame to a low simmer and cover the pot. Simmer until beans are tender but still al dente.
  • Remove thyme sprigs and drain excess water. Place pot on a low flame, and pour in some olive oil, about half a tablespoon.
  • Add about half of the chopped tomatoes to the pot and stir.
  • Crush the garlic into the pot, season to taste with salt and pepper, and stir.
  • Add the cheese and stir.
  • Cover the pot and simmer, stirring occasionally.
  • When the tomatoes have melted down into a sauce, add the remaining tomatoes. Cover and simmer to soften the tomatoes slightly.
  • Add the spinach ribbons and stir. Taste and correct seasonings, then turn off the flame.
  • Serve with a drizzle of olive oil.

Serves 2

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nyc: chinese supermarket

Wandering around Chinatown one evening, I happened upon the Feast of San Genarro, a noisy street fair on the cusp of Chinatown and Little Italy. I’d heard that the Feast of San Gennaro was once a charming event celebrating the Neopolitan heritage of the residents of Little Italy. Sadly, the festival is now a kitschy spoof of its former self. Throngs of people wander from one identical street to the next, surrounded by a mass of vendors all noisily hocking the same cannolis, calzones, and irritating pop music. It all looked so commercial, I didn’t even feel like eating a cannoli. Who knows, the cannolis might have been good. On the other hand, they may have been just as bastardized as the Feast.

On I went, away from Little Italy and into Chinatown. A lot of stores were shut, but many restaurants and some markets were still open. I walked into what I thought was a hole-in-the-wall food shop, which, like Mary Poppins’ bag, turned out to be a quite an extensive Chinese market that was much bigger on the inside that it looked on the outside.

The market is basically a long, wide aisle, stretching from one street all the way through to its parallel. Either end has a take-out section with food rivaling that of any local restaurant. The left aisle has a series of meat, seafood, and confectionary counters, while the right aisle is filled with cured meats and fresh and frozen produce, meat, and seafood. Naturally, I couldn’t resist photographing as much as I could. There’s something satisfying about capturing on flashdisk the smoked duck legs for which you’re lusting. Though not quite as satisfying as actually consuming said foods.

dumplings

Fresh bao at the deli counter. I believe these are stuffed with shrimp.

fish_and_meatballs

The deli section between the fish and meat counters offers “beef tendon balls,” meatballs, “fishballs,” and “fish meat bean curd” balls.

fish_counter

Dainty fresh fish fillets and steaks at the fish counter (I wonder what the “silver fish” tastes like?).

fish_counter_2

Prawns, shrimp, and very large fish.

chicken_feet

Raw and fried chicken feet.

honeycomb_tripe

Honeycomb tripe. According to Wikipedia, this might be steamed and served with spring onions and garlic sauce, for example.

duck_feet

These preserved duck feet bunches are in the cured meat section of the store.

preserved_quail

Preserved quail in the cured meat section with butchers hanging out behind the meat counter.

sausages_chinese_market

Smoked duck legs, smoked bacon, and Chinese sausages.

preserved_duck_head

The sign says “Preserved Duck Head” but they look more like duck necks.

takeout_goodies

Scrumptious looking goodies ready for take-out.

turnip_cake

I’m really curious as to what exactly a turnip cake tastes like. Is it savory? Sweet? I probably should’ve just bought one and put it in my carry-on.

rice_cakes

Lotus seed buns, red bean buns, and muffin-looking rice cakes in the bakery section.

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cool links

Here are some links to some food-related stories and content I’ve been looking at recently:

Upcoming events in the San Francisco Bay Area:

  • Litquake Lit Crawl: Writers on Food and Wine, Saturday October 14, 8:30pm-9:30pm. The San Francisco literary festival includes a lineup of foodwriters at Laszlo Bar, MCed by Shuna of Eggbeater (by way of Eggbeater)
  • Food for Thought: Filmmakers Lilach Dekel and Rod Bachar travel 15,000 miles over 5 months to document where exactly their food comes from (sponsored by commonwealth.org, to be screened in San Jose on November 8)
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lulav and etrog, cucumbers and lettuce

I was recently amused to see a lulav and etrog on display at the Berkeley Bowl. Apparently, you can order them from a guy at the produce section and buy them along with the rest of your groceries.

The lulav and etrog are symbols used in the Jewish celebration of Sukkot, or the Feast of Tabernacles. The lulav and etrog consist of a citron, a ripe palm frond, a myrtle branch, and a willow branch. Each element of the Four Species, as they’re called, represents a different type of Jew. Like Voltron, the Four Species are bound together to create a greater whole, representing the entire Jewish nation. Traditionally, the lulav and etrog are blessed and then gently shaken in four directions, representing the presence of the divine in the four corners of the earth.

My fondest memories of Sukkot are of eating in the sukkah. A sukkah is a sort of temporary hut built outdoors, with a roof typically made of palm branches. The idea is to re-create the huts in which the Jews lived as they traveled the desert between Egypt and the promised land. The sukkah must have a roof that is sparse enough for dwellers to see the stars at night. Ideally, you’re supposed to live in the sukkah for seven days, meaning eating, sleeping, hanging out. For children, this is great news. Any child who loves building forts and camping has a field day, or rather seven field days, during Sukkot.

But nothing is quite like a candle-lit holiday dinner in a sukkah. The palm frond roof rustles in the breeze, and the stars peek through as you enjoy your dinner. The air is permeated by the perfume of the branches, the sweet smell of challah dipped in honey, and the fragrant etrog which is carefully wrapped in a long lock of flax and laid to rest in its own little etrog box.

At the end of the holiday, the sukkah is dismantled and saved for the following year, the sukkah decorations are put away, and the palm fronds lie beside the trash bins awaiting garbage day.

But the etrog isn’t thrown out. Unlike lemons, citrons don’t rot. Instead, they shrivel and harden, which only intensifies their lovely fragrance. An old etrog might find itself snuggled in a sweater drawer. In a Sepharadi or Mizrahi home, etrogs might become etrog jam.

If you can find citrons in your area (try next week, after the holiday), you might want to try making etrog jam, especially if you’re a marmalade enthusiast. Citron jam has a particular flavor of its own. It’s Sukkot in a jar.

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pixelated fondue

My favorite online comic recently ran a food-related strip. Anne, this one’s for you :).

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speaking of heritage turkeys…

I had completely forgotten that Derrick recently wrote about the cruelty inflicted on commercially grown turkeys. Do have a look.

If your stomach is strong and you’re not eating lunch, check out the undercover PETA video that Derrick references.

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heritage turkeys

Would you believe it’s not too early to order a heritage turkey for Thanksgiving? Heritage Foods USA is offering a $10 discount on orders of fresh heritage turkeys delivered to your door two days before the national holiday of compulsive overeating.

What is a heritage turkey and how does it differ from an ordinary turkey? Heritage turkeys are descendants of any of several old breeds registered with the American Poultry Association. According to William Rubel, these breeds are crosses between domesticated European turkey breeds and North American wild turkeys. Heritage turkeys are often pastured, meaning they have access to open spaces outdoors where they can run around and happily munch on grass and bugs before they’re slaughtered for the benefit of our holiday table. Their meat is purported to be much more flavorful and juicy than that of their commercially-bred cousins.

In contrast, your typical Broad Breasted Bronze or Large White is bred for enormous size and large breast. A commercially raised bird might spend its entire life cooped up in a crowded building before it is slaughtered and processed. The result is turkeys that can’t walk or naturally mate, and dry, flavorless meat.

Last year I roasted an organic, free-range turkey, courtesy of Mary’s Free Range Turkey. It was pretty good, certainly juicier than the usual supermarket variety. This year I’ve pre-ordered a heritage bird, which I’m curious to try. A heritage turkey seems like one of those foods that, once you’ve tasted it, might redefine, for you, the very meaning of turkey.

Aside from their superior taste, heritage turkeys revive breeds that would have otherwise faced extinction. As they say at Slow Food, you’ve got to eat ’em to save ’em, a cringe-worthy paradox for any vegetarian, but sadly, true, nonetheless.

This contradiction is a little hard for me to swallow, pardon the pun. I like the idea of raising animals humanely on small farms, and feeding them according to their natural diet (think of cows munching on grass instead of feeding on soybeans, for example).

Put simply, wouldn’t you be happier roaming around outdoors than being penned in a space so small you can barely turn around, surrounded by hundreds of noisy neighbors? (What’s that? You work in a cubicle too?) I certainly would. As such, I try to support humanely raised animal products as much as I can.

But I can’t shake the odd irony that these animals who are raised in a pleasant environment, fed healthy foods, and given space to roam and play, are summarily killed so that I may eat them. I’ve gone the vegetarian route (seven years), and frankly, my palate is much too selfish to go back. Waiter? I’ll have the cognitive dissonance, please. Pass the heritage turkey!

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lazy mezze meal

When I’m feeling lazy and the weather is warm, a light dinner of assorted mezze is very satisfying. Here are some ideas for small dishes, followed by a couple of recipes. Combine a few of these dishes with toasted country style or flat bread and cured meats and cheeses for a light supper or lunch.

  • Halved tomatoes, fried in olive oil with sliced garlic, sprinkled over with salt & pepper and a basil leaf
  • Zucchini blossoms lightly sauteed in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice
  • Steamed stinging nettles (or spinach), mixed with butter, sauteed garlic, seasoned with salt and pepper and garnished with grated parmesan

chickpea and fennel mezze

1/4 can chickpeas
1/4 large fennel, diced
1 clove garlic
juice of half a lemon
olive oil
salt and pepper

  • In a bowl, lightly mash the chickpeas. Toss in the fennel.
  • Press the garlic clove and squeeze the half lemon over the mixture.
  • Pour olive oil on the meze and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serves 2-3 (small, mezze style portions)

cucumber, yogurt, and blueberry mezze with lemon thyme

1 large Persian or other long cucumber, finely diced
2 tsp fresh lemon thyme, pounded in a mortar and pestle or finely chopped fresh mint
about 1 c natural, unflavored, full fat yogurt
about 1 TBS fresh lemon juice
1/4 c fresh blueberries
salt and pepper to taste

  • Put the diced cucumber and herbs in a medium bowl.
  • Pour over some of the yogurt, then squeeze in the lemon juice and toss. You want to balance the acidity of the lemon juice with the tartness of the yogurt, but you don’t want the mixture to be too runny. Add more yogurt as needed and taste as you go.
  • Add in the blueberries and toss carefully, so as not to smash the fruit.
  • Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serves 2 as part of a mezze style meal

P.S. Stay tuned for more reports on NYC and Stockholm…

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more news from nyc

I must have some sort of weird magnetic aura that attracts Israeli Knesset members. The other day I walked right past Silvan Shalom—former Israeli Foreign Minister—in the crowded theater district after seeing “The History Boys.” It’s pretty common to spot celebrities casually walking the crowded streets of New York, but I would sooner have expected to run into David Bowie buying a carton of milk than an Israeli MK looking anonymous among the post-theater throngs.

On the food front, I ate dinner at Four Food Studio and Cocktail Salon last night (no seriously, that’s the actual name of the place). Contrary to what you might think, the wait staff does not cut and style guests’ hair before, during, or after dinner. Rather, Four specializes in fusion style cuisine based on the seasonal foods of Long Island, a laudable concept for a local restaurant.

We started our meal with a basket of warm country style bread with soft butter, followed by the fairly pleasant house cheese fondue. The market salad, punctuated by kernels of fresh corn, and bits of chevre and bacon, was quite good.
For the main course, I had cappuccino dusted rare ahi tuna with jasmine rice pilaf and a sweet eggplant concoction consisting of small, meltingly soft chunks of eggplant. The tuna steak was perfectly seared a thin pale beige on top and bottom, remaining dark pink within. The steak, beautifully speckled with cappuccino (finely ground espresso?), was both delightfully meaty and soft, as you might expect a tuna steak to be.

The dessert menu included such whimsical offerings as “Chocolate Coca Cola Cake with Tahitian vanilla ice cream” and “Coffee and Donuts,” comprised of bread pudding made from donuts and Turkish coffee ice cream with caramel sauce. I don’t care for very sweet desserts, so I ordered a scoop of the vanilla and Turkish coffee ice creams. Both were excellent.

Service is attentive and generous. Our waiter Josh kindly arranged a vegetarian dish with the chef in order to accommodate my veggie brother. Be sure to take some money with you to the restroom, as there’s a nice person there whose job it is to open the tap for you and hand you a paper towel (a bit much for me, but hey, it’s a job). Similarly, several valets are available to park your car for you when you arrive, not that parking is particularly difficult in Melville.

Following dessert, Four serves a large, fluffy ball of pink cotton candy along with the check. The candy floss symbolizes the ethos of the place: deliberately silly, but fun, and pretty tasty, if a little sweet. That the giant wad of fluffy sugar arrives atop a large wine glass points to the restaurant’s ultra-trendy vibe. In all, a fun place to eat on Long Island.

Four Food Studio and Cocktail Salon
515 Broadhollow Road (Rte. 110)
Melville, NY 11747
631.577.4444

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live from new york

I’m on vacation in NYC, hence the slowdown of posts. Foodwise, I’ve had:

  • A corned beef sandwich on rye with mustard at Katz’s, which, I’m sorry to say, was better than the corned beef I make at home.
  • Some sort of rice and red bean pastry from a Chinese bakery in Nolita. It was covered in sesame seeds, slightly crisp on the outside, and chewy on the inside. The pastry was filled with sweet red bean paste.
  • An H&H bagel with cream cheese and Scottish lox, which is almost as good as Norwegian lox. It’s been a long time since I’ve had a proper, boiled bagel, rather than a bun with a hole in it. I recommend the pumpernickel bagel.
  • Chocolate cake at My Most Favorite Dessert Company.
  • Perfectly grilled, rare lamb chops at Blair Perrone steak house, courtesy of my sister and brother-in-law (thanks, guys!).

Other than eating, I’m doing the usual New York City thing—museums, shows, taking photos of buildings like a crazed tourist.

That’s about all the news that’s fit to print. I’m going to go polish off the rest of my corned beef sandwich for breakfast.

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